Have you heard the term Netsuke but didn’t really know what it referred to?

Well Netsuke are tiny carvings used as toggles on traditional Japanese dress. As Men’s  kimonos didn’t have any sewn up sleeves and were completely open, front and back, and that meant the sleeves couldn’t be used as pockets, as they could in ladies kimonos. To carry things such as tobacco pouches, medicines and other necessities men hung their stylish inro’s from cords looped under and behind the wide sashes that held their kimonos in place. At the other end of those cords, they fastened small, ornamental objects as counterweights and these evolved into the netsuke.

All parts of Japanese life and culture were captured in the netsuke with whimsical depictions, mythical beasts and true to life portraits. They were carved from ivory (now illegal to sell), bone and wood and were made for over three hundred years from the 16th century. Netsuke were also carved in relief on circular discs, carvings in clam shells or elongated slabs or sticks.

Merchants often wore netsuke to subtly express their wealth and status in society. Much like jewellery, watches and handbags today, netsuke were worn to match different occasions and ensembles. Japanese men who could afford them amassed netsuke to diversify their wardrobes.

By the end of end of the 19th century Japanese fashion became more influenced by the West and netsuke disappeared from everyday use. Westerners took up the collectors mantle and netsuke craftsmen continued to produce beautiful pieces for wealthy Americans and European collectors. The finest carvers would always sign their work and these examples are the most sought after.

Today there are many modern fakes so collectors have to be very careful. Fakes can be identified in a number of ways, for example, the hole through which the cord was threaded may be missing, they may appear too uniform in size or lack the signs of regular use and wear.

So if you are interested in starting a collection of netsuke why not collect a particular theme such as animals, legends or mythical subjects. Some subjects are rarer than others and therefore more desirable. Prices for netsuke vary from as little as £20 to as much as a couple of hundred thousand pounds. Top prices are connected to the very best artists as well as the combination of the quality of the carving, rarity and its artistic appeal. As always if you would like any assistance in buying or selling myself and my colleagues here at Sheffield Auction Gallery are always happy to help.